Showing posts with label vacation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vacation. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 19

travelogue: charleston, south carolina - part 4 - sullivan's island


My #1 criteria for our vacation spot this summer was that it had to have a beach. I needed the ocean. One of the reasons Charleston was so appealing was because it was surrounded by beaches - there's Seabrook Island (private and serene), Kiawah Island (pristine and luxurious), Folly Beach (young and eclectic), Isle of Palms (family friendly), and Sullivan's Island. Since we stayed in Mount Pleasant, we were right between Charleston's historic downtown and Sullivan's Island, and we visited the beach almost every night of our stay in the Lowcountry. From our first drive through the pastel houses Mount Pleasant's historic district and out to the island, we were in love.


My travel outfit: Ann Taylor tank, handmade necklace with 
charms from Michael's, and olive shorts. Love this color combo!

This beautiful coastline was our first taste of Sullivan's Island after arriving in Charleston - quiet, serene perfection. The island is just 3.3 square miles with more homes and rentals than businesses - Middle Street just a few blocks, is home to quirky restaurants like Taco Mamacita (which we loved) and the famous Poe's Tavern (Edgar Allan Poe was stationed at Fort Moultrie during his time in the Army).



Sullivan's Island has a vibe that reminds me of the Outer Banks - laid-back. One of the most interesting things we saw on one of our visits there was a group of volunteers working in shifts to monitor a sea turtle's nest.




Sullivan's Island offers a great view of the Charleston skyline and the Arthur Ravenel Jr. bridge, which connects downtown Charleston and Mount Pleasant.



Most of the beach houses on Sullivan's are quaint and unassuming - I think this one is my dream house! I love the tin roof and double porch but I'm pretty sure the string lights were what really did it for me.



A newer Sullivan's Island beach house - I loved the teal color and the construction is a modern take on traditional Charleston style, including the great plantation-style staircase.


A casual night out: T.J. Maxx lace tank, handmade tassel 
necklace, Jessica Simpson clutch, StitchFix striped skirt, 
and Old Navy flip flops to survive the sand!

On our last night in Charleston, we had dinner at Shem Creek Bar and Grill, which was highly recommended by friends. It's a local favorite and the seafood did not disappoint. Afterward, we headed over to Sullivan's for one last beach walk before saying goodbye to the Lowcountry.


Wednesday, August 12

travelogue: charleston, south carolina - part 3 - boone hall plantation


While planning our Charleston trip, many people recommended that we visit one of the historic plantations around the city. Since Mr. Q and I love learning about history, I started researching the different options. The most visited plantations seem to be Middleton Place,  which boasts 65 acres of landscaped gardens, a house built in 1755, and costumed interpreters, Magnolia Plantation, which features a house tour, America's largest Romantic-style garden, and an Audubon Swamp Garden, Drayton Hall, preserved by the National Trust, and Boone Hall, which is still a working farm. Want to hear my educated, intelligent, sophisticated reason for choosing Boone Hall as our destination?

It was used as Allie's family's summer home in The Notebook.


Not only is Boone Hall still a working farm, the owners, the McRae family, also own and operate a Farm Market and cafe on Route 17 near the plantation. We planned to visit the cafe for brunch before touring the plantation, and were so impressed by how clean and cozy the market and cafe were. I chose the signature sandwich and most Southern thing on the menu, a crab and pimento cheese melt with fried green tomatoes on whole wheat bread served with homemade kettle chips. Mr. Q had the barbecue sandwich, which he said was great, but I don't think you can beat the combo of shredded crab meat, spicy pimento cheese, and a fried green tomato with a glass of sweet tea!


Dressing for the heat at Boone Hall in my LOFT palm print tee (similar), 
basic denim bermudas, my Old Navy bucket bag (similar), BareTraps 
sandals (similar), and Ray-Ban Jackie Ohh sunglasses (similar).


The Avenue of Oaks, planted in 1743 by Major John Boone's son, was the inspiration for the road to Twelve Oaks in Gone With the Wind. Driving down this famous road really was a dreamy experience.


A list of all available activities for the day is posted at the plantation's entrance gate and there is a radio station visitors can tune to. It was nice to hear some introductory information as we drove down the Avenue of Oaks to the parking lot. We visited the Hospitality Center first, where a staff member signed us up for a 12:30 house tour and pointed out that a presentation about African-American Gullah culture, unique to the Lowcountry, begin at 1:15. We headed up to the house for our tour - right through the gate Ryan Gosling crashed his car into as Noah Calhoun! 


We toured the gardens before our house tour, which was led by a very knowledgeable guide in period costume. Although the house is not the original plantation house, it was constructed to help visitors learn about life in a planter family's house in Charleston during the the pre-Civil War period and the McRae family have been hosting tours since the 1950's. Since the house is still a private residence, only the first floor is open to the public and photography is not allowed indoors. The tour included the library, dining room, patio, and gun room, and our guide was a delightful young lady.

After our house tour, we toured the original slave cabins on the property -- there was a brickworks on the grounds so the nine "cabins" are actually brick houses -- and attended the Gullah Culture presentation. I appreciated that Boone Hall does not gloss over the history of slavery and that the slaves' stories are actually told by their descendants.

Afterward, we visited the polo ponies in their paddock, then headed over to the Butterfly Pavilion to see the flowers and butterflies and to board the motorized carriage for a tour of the Plantation and farm. Although at times the carriage tour felt like an extended commercial (Eat Boone Hall Farms produce! Visit the Boone Hall Farms Restaurant! Come in October for the corn maze! Have your wedding here!), we learned quite a bit about South Carolina history and agriculture. 





The property is beautifully maintained, even the farm fields, and the staff is very helpful and friendly. We really enjoyed our visit to Boone Hall Plantation.


Tuesday, August 4

travelogue: charleston, south carolina - part 2


Today I wanted to spotlight some of the fun places we visited on our trip to Charleston. The first place we went to see in the city was the South Carolina Aquarium - I'm a life science nerd at heart, and after some online research, it was first on my list of must-see attractions. I was especially excited about the new Madagascar exhibit which included one of my favorite animals - lemurs! Mr. Q and I may have been one of few childless couples at the aquarium, but I have to say I think we enjoyed it as much as any of the kids.


The South Carolina Aquarium is organized by ecosystems, beginning with those close to home for visitors from the Carolinas (and to we Virginians), the Mountain Forest and the Piedmont. The SC Aquarium isn't limited to fish or even just to aquatic creatures - in addition to the aforementioned lemurs, the Mountain Forest exhibit included a Bald Eagle rescued from Florida and river otters (who swam way too fast for me to get a picture!). The next exhibit, the Coastal Plain, featured a huge albino alligator and poisonous snakes.


One of the SC Aquarium's cool features is that many of the exhibits, like the woodland stream and Saltmarsh Aviary, include open tanks so that you can really see the animals from every angle. You can feed a manta ray while also watching birds and turtles.


The Coastal exhibit upstairs featured large tanks with beautiful animals including slightly-creepy lionfish, eels, sharks, and sea turtles. The two-story Ocean tank was probably my favorite exhibit because it included a 220-pound loggerhead sea turtle! Downstairs, there were tanks of jellyfish and animals that live at the bottom of the ocean.  In addition to the impressive tanks, the SC Aquarium offers two touch tanks - upstairs, there's an invertebrate tank with hermit crabs, anemones, and horseshoe crabs native to Carolina tidal pools. Downstairs on the terrace, there's a new exhibit called Shark Shallows that we were really excited about because it's a touch tank with stingrays, cownose rays, and little bonnethead sharks! It requires patience - especially when little kids are splashing in the water or trying to poke the sharks - but eventually we got to pet stingrays (slimy) and a shark (rubbery)!


Since the temperature was going to be under 90 on Saturday, our second full day in Charleston, we decided to make that our beach day. Each of the beaches around the city is said to have its own personality, and I was really interested in checking out Folly Beach, which has a reputation as the "bohemian" beach. On the drive toward Folly, it became clear that we weren't the only ones who thought a beach day was a good idea, and the parking lots around the pier and main strip at the beach were crowded and expensive. We drove away from the pier to find a metered space that wasn't too bad and staked our claim on a stretch of shore. There was plenty of people-watching at Folly Beach, from surfers to cute kiddos, but it was so windy that the ocean was almost too rough to swim. After fighting with the waves for a couple of hours, we decided to get a bite to eat, and since parking was so limited on Folly Beach we headed inland away from the touristy strip (although I'd love to check it out again during the off-season or on a weekday!)


Is it tacky to write about seafood in the same post as an aquarium review? I'm going to say no because the SC Aquarium actually works to educate the public about sustainable eating. We stopped at Roadside Seafood on Folly Road in John's Island, which is a non-touristy area right between the beach and the city. It's a cute, clean diner specializing in fried seafood which was exactly what we wanted. I decided to try she-crab soup since it is such a Charleston culinary staple, and was really impressed by how good Roadside's version was! I also got the crab bites, which are like crab cake hush puppies served with remoulade. Mr. Q got the black fin shark bites with BAM sauce. The service was fast, our waitress was friendly, and we felt like locals.

For my shopping outfit, I paired my favorite LOFT geo print henley 
shell (similarwith a handmade arrow and feather charm necklace, basic khaki shorts, my Old Navy bucket bag (similar) and BareTraps sandals (similar). 
I love having a mix and match wardrobe when traveling.

The low point of our Folly Beach adventure was the ocean stealing Mr. Q's sunglasses, but we decided to make lemonade with a trip to Tanger Outlets, which is probably the prettiest mall I've ever seen. I'm always happy with a shopping trip, especially when it includes stops at LOFT and J. Crew outlets and frozen yogurt afterward!

Thursday, July 30

travelogue: charleston, south carolina - part 1


When planning our vacation this summer, Mr. Q and I had several criteria: we wanted to visit a city we hadn't been to together before, I wanted to enjoy time at the beach, and Mr. Q needed it to be within a half day's drive. Charleston, South Carolina was the perfect spot to meet all of our criteria, and after reading several online travel guides (this one from Cosmos Mariners was probably the most helpful) and becoming a TripAdvisor addict, I couldn't wait for our trip to begin. Even though we live in the South, there's a huge cultural difference between the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Lowcountry!

We opted to stay in the town of Mount Pleasant, which is just over the beautiful Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge from Charleston - and by staying out of the city we saved about $100 per night! Mount Pleasant is a suburban area with plenty of grocery stores and restaurants, and it's right between Charleston and Sullivan's Island.

On our first full day in Charleston, we decided to explore the city. After a visit to the South Carolina Aquarium (more on that destination next week!), we headed down Calhoun Street to pay our respects at the Emanuel A.M.E. Church, which was the site of the tragic shooting last month. There were many church groups visiting as well as individuals and families leaving flowers (both real and woven from sweetgrass, a Gullah tradition) and signing the banner and wooden sign in front of the church. We had already begun planning our trip when the shooting occurred, and it was important to us to show the church some love while we were in Charleston.


We reached the historic Charleston City Market and walked through the many shops and kiosks that line the halls in the main building and several brick outbuildings, with vendors selling everything from pottery and sweetgrass baskets to Vera Bradley purses and Stetson hats. The market was much less crowded than, say, the Pike Place Market in Seattle, but much busier than our farmer's market stalls in Roanoke!



After lunch at a health-food and smoothie bar called Whisk, we kept walking south to the Four Corners of Law at the intersection of Meeting and Broad Streets, so named because the buildings on each corner represent federal, state, local and ecclesiastical law. Behind the Charleston County Courthouse is a beautiful garden that we had to check out!


The walk down Meeting Street from the City Market to the Battery and White Point Gardens took us into the French Quarter neighborhood and past some of the most beautiful Georgian buildings I've ever seen, dating back to the Colonial period and many painted bright candy colors.


In the French Quarter, many of the houses don't face the street! Instead, they face beautiful gardens and the porches have doors onto the street. We learned that this style of home is known as a "single house" because they are one room wide, and that when families left their porch door open it meant they were ready to welcome visitors.



We reached the Battery and White Point Gardens, and spent some much-needed time relaxing on a park bench beside a Union Army cannon and looking out into Charleston Harbor, where the Ashley and Cooper Rivers empty into the Atlantic Ocean. We could see Fort Sumter and Castle Pinckney in the distance and watched some folks who were having a sailboat race.



Walking back along the waterfront on East Bay Street, we passed The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon and the most photographed buildings in Charleston, Rainbow Row.

It's a good thing Mr. Q enjoys photography because I demanded an outfit 
picture in front of this fountain! I paired my Papermoon blouse from Stitchfix 
with khaki shorts, my Old Navy bucket bag (similarand BareTraps sandals 
(similar) and it was the perfect travel outfit for the hot, humid day.

Our final stop on our tour of Charleston was the Waterfront Park, which is beautifully landscaped with plenty of palmetto trees and includes two fountains - one for kids to play in and this lovely pineapple! We found a swing to relax in while we watched stormclouds roll over the harbor. We had definitely fallen in love with the Holy City and were already planning our next visit.

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